Long on life span and short on fuss, composite decking is an excellent choice when building the perfect outdoor living space for your family to enjoy. These man-made boards will never splinter, rot and will never need staining. They are built to withstand the most brutal weather conditions. The team at Coastal Home Remodeling has the experience and know-how to build the deck of your dreams.
AR showers are unique as the only international manufacturers of the complete wet room system, specializing in the production of high quality, robust products that together create a watertight, proven system for domestic and commercial environments.
Using the latest manufacturing techniques, cutting edge design, the highest quality raw materials and thorough testing procedures, we are proud to have been manufacturing for decades the strongest shower decks, which have achieved industry leading, independent test results. Ar shower decks have been installed in thousands of properties throughout the internationally due to its robust construction, ease of installation, as well as the confidence instilled in our clients through its unfaltering reputation.
The Three Types of Roof
A seamless rubber roof is basically a thick coating of liquid rubber poured on the roof. Before the product is applied, the seams and vent flashing are sealed with a rubber neoprene product.
Seamed rubber roofs are sheets of rubber stretched over the roof. These are very popular roofing replacement and repair options for Ar but larger mobile homes will likely need to be seamed together. The rubber comes in various thicknesses.
The rubber is cut to have enough room to fall off the side of the roof a bit so that a termination bar can hold it in place.
If sealing and rubber is something you don’t want to be involved with, a metal roof is the best option for you.
The basic installation method is fairly simple and the overall cost of a metal roof is affordable. Most homeowners will opt to hire someone to install a metal roof. If you are comfortable with basic construction work, you should have no problem installing a metal roof.
AR Shower Deck is ideal for creating a level access wet floor area with ease. With a self supporting structure, Ar Shower Deck can be placed directly onto underfloor joists without the need for additional support.
The built-in falls in the deck encourages the swift removal of waste water. Designed with easy installation in mind, AR Shower Decks can be installed into existing concrete or timber floors. Offset waste outlets have been designed to avoid joists (in most circumstances) for easier access to the pipework. The pre-cut outlet is suitable for use with gravity waste or pumped waste systems. Pre-cut linear drainage options are also available.
Different roofing systems have different fastening requirements. In general, they can be divided into two categories: those systems that use cleats secured to battens and those whose cleats are fastened directly to the roof deck.
Batten systems may be applied over any type of decking. On concrete, gypsum, or steel decks, the wood battens may be secured by thru-bolts, expansion inserts or similar anchoring devices.
For systems that use cleats secured directly to the deck, it is imperative that the holding power of the deck is adequate to sustain design wind conditions. If the surface to receive the roofing is other than wood or a nailable deck, nailing strips or inserts must be provided to secure the cleats. Nailers should, in general, be installed transverse (perpendicular) to the seams rather than parallel to them since variations in the widths of finished pans make it impossible to assure proper alignment of seams over parallel nailers for an entire roof.
Copper roofing is typically constructed using 16 oz. or 20 oz. cold rolled copper sheets. Sheets can be either preformed or formed in the field into pans. Pans up to 10 feet long are considered short pans. Roofs using pans longer than 10 feet should be designed to accommodate additional movement at the ends of the pans. For additional information, see Roofing Systems–Long Pan.
The copper pans rest on 4 lb., minimum, rosin-sized smooth building paper. The underlayment is typically 30 lb., minimum, saturated roofing felts. Other materials may be substituted in specific applications. See the specifications and manufacturers’ recommendations.
The surface preparation for copper roofing systems is similar. The deck should be thoroughly dry, smooth, and free from projecting screws, nail heads or other imperfections. The entire surface should be covered with an approved underlayment secured with copper nails and washers. The underlayment, which is often saturated roofing felt, acts as a cushion, as well as providing temporary weather protection for the roof deck.
A sheet of building paper must be applied over the felt. Because copper has a tendency to conduct heat, elevated temperatures can cause asphalt in the underlayment to bond the copper to the roof deck. This inhibits the movement of the copper roof and can result in premature fatigue. The building paper acts as a slip sheet to prevent such bonding.
A variety of power pan formers and power seamers are available to assist in the construction of copper roofs. Power pan formers can take flat or coiled, sheet or strip copper and produce roofing pans on site. They result in high quality, uniform pans whose length is limited only by the contractor’s ability to transport and handle the material (pan lengths should not exceed the recommendations in the Roofing Systems–Long Pan). Pan formers typically have the ability to produce pans of varying width with 1″ high standing seams.
Power seamers are used to produce finished standing or batten seams. The seamers are engaged onto an unfinished seam and propel themselves under electrical power the length of the seam. They can form seams of virtually any length.
The perfect solution for vinyl installations:
->Lifetime Warranty 7/8” 22mm.
->Market leading strength and rigidity.
->Accepts 55 Stone / 350kg of loading.
->Unique high grade.
->SMC formulation Computer aided cellular structure design.
-> Suitable for timber / joist installation.
->Beds well into concrete / screed substrates.
->Unique cross linked rib design for optimum strength.
->No under boarding required.
->22mm level access base.
->Pre formed fixing holes.
->Drill guideline – if additional fixing points are required.
-> Precision engineered gradients / slopes Pre-cut waste outlet suitable for gravity waste or Phlexiflow and Hydro-Flow pumped waste systems.
->Waste offset to avoid joists.
->Can be trimmed on site.
-> Excellent stock availability throughout the UK.
Whether you bathroom is outdated or you just want to improve it, Cultured Marble is an excellent choice. Our marble can be installed all throughout your bathroom to give it a more luxurious look while also adding value to your home. marble is known for not only its beauty but also its durability, which can last for years to come. When you need a new bathroom, you won’t find a better team of installers or a better selection in the area than Bishop Custom Marble.
>>Build the Walls and Expose the Drain
The shower walls have been framed like any other wall with 2″x 4″ studs, generally 16″ on-center, and pressure-treated sill plates (the lumber that sits on the floor). During the “rough plumbing” of the shower and tub, the drain pipe ends were each encased in plastic boxes, so when the slab was poured a void was created surrounding the end of each drain pipe. This photo shows the shower walls built (with design features like a space at the tops of walls and glass block “windows”). The drain boxes are also visible, with one inside the shower walls and the other for the future tub drain. The boxes will be cut away to expose the drain pipes inside.
>>Build a Shower Curb
A shower curb is built with pressure-treated lumber. The curb is bolted into the slab with concrete anchor bolts (“Red Heads”) and the top board covers the bolts and nuts.
>>Construct a Trap and Place the Drain
Here the box has been cut away and a p-trap installed that will sit below-grade. I have also set in place the two-piece drain assembly (my preference are Ebbe drains for superior design and excellent hair-trapping). I will set the height so the lowest part of the drain (the round part under the bolts) is app. 1/4″ – 1/2″ above the slab. I then wrapped the pipe with pipe wrap before filling the space with concrete.
>>Fill the Void
Here I have filled the void with concrete and feathered it smooth. The lower drain part is app. 1/4″ above the slab and is covered with duct tape to keep out debris.
>>Trowel a Pre-slope
Next, a “pre-slope” is troweled to sit below the vinyl material. The slope is formed to the standard 1/4″ per foot. Measurements are made from the drain extending to each wall, then 1/4″ per foot is calculated for the length, and marks are made on the walls to correspond to the necessary height. Deck mortar is used (sand and cement only – no aggregate) and the slope is troweled from the drain to the levels marked on the walls. A level is dragged around the area to confirm the slope and smooth it (some levels are marked with the 1/4″ per foot position).
>>Finish the Pre-slope
Here is the finished pre-slope. The upper portion of the two-piece drain is in place to keep out debris. The vinyl will go over the pre-slope, the idea being that if water gets through the tile grout, and through the upper mortar bed, it will hit this vinyl and still exit into the drain via weep holes along the rim of the lower drain piece.
>>Install the Vinyl Sheet
Vinyl sheet especially made for shower pans is available from several manufacturers. The sheets are quite thick — about 40 mil. and pre-made pieces for curbs, corners, etc. are sometimes available. The glue used is also specifically designed for vinyl material. First, the drain pieces are separated and the vinyl is laid into the bottom of the pan. Then small slits are cut where the drain bolts will hold the two drain pieces together. Assemble the two drain pieces — one above and one below the vinyl — and bolt together. Coat the bolt holes with clear silicone before tightening the pieces together. The large drain hole is not cut open yet. NO OTHER HOLES are ever put into the vinyl inside the pan. Corners are made by folding the material and nailed the fold at the top with a single roofing nail. The curb is made by cutting and gluing vinyl pieces with plenty of overlap and plenty of glue. The curb piece is only nailed at the back (outside) of the curb.
>>Install Mortar Forms
To form a nice straight top edge of the pan I used strips of 1/2″ sheet material (OSB or plywood) that is the same thickness as the tile backer board I’ll use on the shower walls — this will provide a smooth transition for the tile. Before I screwed in the strips I cut wire lathe for the short vertical surfaces to keep the mortar in place. The lathe is carefully cut to stop about 1″ from the pan bottom (no contact with the vinyl). The OSB strips are leveled of course before screwing in place. The curb is also covered with lathe and simply wired to the wall lathe to keep it in place. The plywood form on the outside of the curb was made to trowel the curb flat and and make a clean edge. The finished pan still setting up with form boards in place. They are gently removed after a few days.